Written by Ivan Yaskey in Brands on the 21st February 2022

Over the past few years, many of us have been rethinking our wardrobes in response to sustainability and the sudden societal changes brought about by the Covid-19 pandemic. From these developments, minimalism and veering toward classic style are increasingly replacing a trend-centric approach. Behind this, you’ve likely been questioning all the stuff you have in your wardrobe, particularly the items you no longer wear, and how, when you do purchase garments, you can make better decisions. Beyond individual-level choices, the fashion industry continues to embrace seasonless style – that is, garments not tied to any northern hemisphere shifts – and muses releasing fewer collections. Danish brand HANSEN Garments embodies much of these elements through more timeless and oftentimes seasonless cuts, neutral hues, fabrics made to last, and exploration into sustainability.

About HANSEN Garments 

Founders Aase Helena Hansen and Per Chrois Christensen launched HANSEN in Copenhagen in 2010 and, by 2016, opened a brick-and-mortar location housing both their own garments and those curated from international brands. Between them, Hansen brings 20 years working as a designer, and Christensen comes from a background in film production. Continuing to operate HANSEN as a smaller, privately owned business more than a decade into its development, Hansen and Christensen base their brand on Nordic tradition, human connection, quality construction, and offering something unique to consumers.

What results are versatile garments designed for everyday use that blend elevated construction with more relaxed forms. At the same time, carrying silhouettes over from season to season rather than delivering something entirely new each time speaks to another factor: HANSEN engineers garments to last beyond a few months and to provide a degree of adaptability. Within this general framework, you’ll spot clear workwear influences, from softer yet rugged silhouettes to extra pockets to blazers fused with jacket sensibilities. Playing off this is reinterpreted tailoring, ensuring that whether you’re sporting a button-front shirt or joggers, it fits well, delivers natural fluidity, and seamlessly transitions from smart-casual to traditionally casual settings. 

Beyond the visuals, HANSEN continues to manufacture its garments in Europe, using a mix of contemporary and traditional techniques and allowing for greater oversight in both quality and working conditions. Fabrics are primarily sourced from Italy and Japan, and use of recycled materials provides a degree of sustainability. Fasteners and other trim aren’t exempt, with metal, authentic horn, and mother of pearl used over plastic or another synthetic fabrication.

AW21 Collection 

This belief shapes the theme for HANSEN’s Autumn/Winter 2021 collection, titled “Winter Breeze.” Perhaps a bit of a paradox in name, the collection focuses on fabric construction and colour and the role they play in creating the sense of a season. The intention, here, isn’t directly to speak specifically to AW21 and what it signifies in time but to set you on the path to a longer-lasting wardrobe. That said, plainness and ordinariness aren’t the name of the game, and experimentation and pushing boundaries are why many of us become enamoured with style in the first place. That desire gets satiated through bolder colours – in orange, red, and other autumnal hues playing off more versatile blues and greys for balance – as well as impactful classic prints and fabrics. Houndstooth has an almost checkerboard quality about it, while Chenille resembles a softer, more tactile velvet referencing its fuzzy caterpillar-named origins. 

Knits make up a cornerstone of the collection, going between saturated solids and houndstooth, with V-neck and sweater vest offerings available. Italian and Austrian yarns using a mix of wool and alpaca sources speak to the construction and warmth expected. Slubbing and a finer knit, meanwhile, add a softer, somewhat more lightweight and refined, yet worn appearance that steps away from predictability. In line with comfort, HANSEN’s AW21 offerings reflect changes in fit and silhouette without venturing into exaggerated territory. More specifically, tapered to wider trouser legs replace long-standing slimmer and skinny fits, going through and beyond bootcut territory while simultaneously taking influence from workwear.

These aspects converge in HANSEN’s suiting. Already hinted at, AW21 presents casual suits, reminiscent of the slouchier, sometimes double-breasted cuts seen in runway presentations but more understated and restrained here, and still borrowing a touch from workwear. Somewhat languid, unstructured forms provide the foundation, while aspects like patch and flap pockets and yarn-dyed cotton dress down what we generally perceive as a strictly formal- to cocktail-level garment. On the casual end, HANSEN has started to seriously think about work-from-home wardrobes, steering you away from athleisure without compromising ease and comfort. This mindset has resulted in shirt and drawstring trouser sets with substance and quality cotton and wool materials that pull on, offer a degree of warmth, and let you relax. 

Into SS22 

With spring up ahead, HANSEN changes up the aesthetic just slightly. This isn’t a collection that swaps out everything wool for rayon, and fleece for linen. Instead, HANSEN borrows many of the same forms but reimages them for longer days and warmer weather, ideally with a jaunt to the beach. The colour palette shifts from the browns, reds, and autumnal influences to coastal landscape-inspired tones, like beige, blue, and white with touches of yellow and indigo for depth. Fabric also matters. From the wool and chenille, dobby, lance, and jacquard weaves, plus some viscose, linen, and hemp, let your skin breathe while offering a moderately tailored look bridging relaxation and refinement. 

Standout garments include the JAMES Crew Neck Pocket T with contrast stitching on the chest pocket, a taped neck, and slits on both sides. It is also made from slub yarn jersey, which is a semi heavy fabric, giving a rugged look. The JONNY short sleeve shirt provides an elegant and sophisticated summer look. It has a 1950s style convertible collar and is made from lightweight Italian cotton twill which is known for its comfort and soft touch. SAM is a regular fit overshirt which can be teamed with the JACK casual drawstring loose fitted pant with elastic waist. Both are made from Japanese Indigo Cotton Waffle. The ERLING casual work jacket features horn buttons and is available in off white, rosemary and terra. For a smarter look, turn to the NICOLAI sports blazer, KAJ waistcoat, and FRED regular cut trouser made from Portuguese cotton with a houndstooth pattern. Finally, I really like the MIKAEL long kimono style coat featuring two oversized pockets.

hansengarments.com

Founded by Aase Helena Hansen and Per Chrois Christensen, we take a look at HANSEN Garments' seasonless style, and AW21 and SS22 collections.